Jan. 4 2009

Dijon, France

Travel postcard from Tom

BY Tom SIETSEMA  |  Washington Post Food Critic

LES HALLES DE DIJON

 (At Rue Bannelier)

Does it look familiar? Native son Gustave Eiffel (1832-1923) designed Dijon's sumptuous steel-and-glass food market, conveniently located in the heart of the city. I scored a coup with my guide, local food scribe Alex Miles, whose favorite stalls quickly became mine as well. For cheese, there's no finer selection than at Au Gas Normand, watched over by Sophie Greenbaum, whose treasures run to Comté and Epoisses and can be vacuum-packed for the trip home. And if you wish to make a sandwich of her specialties, make a beeline for D'un Pain a l'Autre ("From One Bread to Another"), where baker Fred Mougel displays dozens of organic breads. Visit early. By day's end,  "there's not a crumb left.